A civeta-africana (Civettictis civetta) é um mamífero carnívoro, africano, da família dos viverrídeos, com até 90 cm de comprimento. A espécie possui uma pelagem negra com manchas brancas e glândulas anais que produzem uma secreção acre e oleosa, conhecida como almíscar, utilizada na confecção de perfumes. Também é conhecido pelos nomes de algália, civeta-africana, gato-almiscarado, nandínia, gato-de-algália e gato-lagária.
Costumam esfregar as glândulas anais nas rochas para demarcar seu território e atrair as fêmeas da espécie. O óleo produzido nestas glândulas é repulsivo para outros mamíferos, mas para a perfumaria já teve grande valor.
Tal óleo é viscoso, denso e tem odor fecal, porém transformado em extrato através de diluição e demais processos se torna suave, como nuances florais. Recebe aí o nome de zibetona ou civetona. Serve como potente fixador.
Porém, a crueldade utilizada para obtenção dessa substância a tirou da indústria perfumística, sendo substituída pelos compostos sintéticos. Ainda bem. Eram mantidos em cativeiro em condições precárias, justamente para que ficassem “irritadiços” e produzissem mais secreção. Já li sobre a obtenção do óleo por “raspagem” das grades das gaiolas onde ficavam trancafiados, ou ainda pior, que eram mortos para extração da glândula produtora de tal excreção.
Engraçado, quando minha saudosa avó italianíssima era viva, sempre que se deparava com alguma moça mais “atirada” (a atual piriguete), ela dizia que era “una civetta”. Será que era uma alusão ao animalzinho dono de tal secreção tão sexy?
Alguns perfumes que contém civeta (não sei se natural ou sintética, mas acredito que atualmente o valor do material e questões éticas inviabilizam o uso da matéria natural – mais uma vez, ainda bem!):
Arpege – Lanvin
Bal a Versailles – Jean Desprez
Boucheron – Boucheron
Boudoir – Vivienne Westwood
Chanel Nº5 – Chanel
Joop Femme – Joop
Joy – Jean Patou
Knowing – Estee Lauder
Kingdom – Alexander MacQueen
Kouros -YSL
Magie Noire – Lancome
Maroussia – Slava Zaitsev
Must – Cartier
Narcisse Noir – Caron
Paloma Picasso – Paloma Picasso
Roma – Laura Biagiotti
Shalimar – Guerlain
(Fonte da informação sobre os perfumes com civeta aqui: http://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Civet-104.html)
Devo gostar muito de tal nota, pois tenho vários dos citados aqui e no site de referência…
Aloucadosperfumes 
ainda bem que agora é tudo sintético!!!
Tem razão!
Esqueceu do cabotine gres que contém civeta tb rs
Tem razão Joice! E é um belíssimo perfume!
Carolina Herrera, by Carolina Herrera também contêm a viverá..
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